Namadare, Dashi no Bu (なまだれだしの部)
Stocks and Flavorings
This covers the basic stocks, sauces, condiments, flavorings, and preparation techniques that are used throughout the rest of the book. Dashi is still a major component of most Japanese soups and other dishes. Primarily made from dried bonito, it is also a source of the "umami" flavor, which is also found in kelp. It also can be found in miso and most fermented products. Thus we have namadare, taremiso, and "kage wo otosu" (drop a shadow). It is important to remember that that formulation for miso and soy sauce was different than modern varieties, which use wheat and other grains to temper the overall flavor. The last main component is sake (and sake lees), which are also commonly used.
Though not explicitly mentioned throughout the rest of the text, the vegetarian options, though more complex, should be usable throughout the text wherever non-vegetarian versions are called for.
One final note on "shimofuri", which is also the name of a preparation found in the chapter on sashimi. Basically a blanching technique, this can be used to remove some of the fishiness from fish that is less than fresh. Without refrigeration, anywhere that wasn't at the shore was relying on fish that was less than ideal; while fresh fish shouldn't have a strong odor of anything other than the ocean, not-so-fresh fish has the distinctive fish odor. By quickly blanching and then removing the fish, it can remove some of that fishiness so that it doesn't ruin the other flavors of a dish.
- Namadare 生垂・生垂れ (Fresh miso sauce)
Tare miso 垂味噌 (Miso sauce)
- Mix 1 shô miso and 3 shô water, knead it, and then strain it through a bag.
Ninuki 煮貫 (Fish flavored namadare)
Dashi だし (Basic stock)
- Mix 1 shô miso and 3 shô 5 gô of water and simmer. When it has boiled down to only 3 shô, put it in a bag and strain it.
Irizake 煎り酒 ("Roasted" sake)
- Chip katsuo into good size pieces, and when you have 1 shô worth, add 1 shô 5 gô of water and simmer. Sip to test and should remove the katsuo when it matches your taste. Too sweet is no good. The dashi may be boiled a second time and used.
Dashizake だし酒 (Sake stock)
- Mix 1 shô katsuo with 15~20 ume. Add 2 shô of aged sake, a little water, and a little tamari. Boil down to 1 shô and let cool. Alternatively, add 2 shô of sake, 1 shô of water, and boil down to 2 shô.
Shôjin no dashi 精進のだし (Vegetarian stock)
Shô no Irizake 精進の煎り酒 (Vegetarian irizake)
- Add a little salt to katsuo . Add one or two splashes of new sake, boil and cool.
Wasabi miso-su 山葵味噌酢 (Wasabi Miso Vinegar)
- Cut tôfu in dengaku sized pieces and toast them over flame. Take such things as umeboshi and dried turnip, then slice and add them. Boil it all in aged sake. Alternatively, using a little tamari in plain sake is good. There exist oral traditions.
Shôga miso-su 生姜味噌酢 (Ginger Miso Vinegar)
Shirosu 白酢 (White vinegar)
- Grate wasabi. Add miso. Knead it well, and then dilute with vinegar.
Shimofuri 霜降り (Falling Mist, aka Blanching)
- Put poppy in tôfu. Season with salt. Dilute with vinegar. For shiro ae, knead well without adding the vinegar.
Kage wo otosu かげを落とす (Dropping a shadow)
- Slice tai into strips and put them in boiling water. When done, cool it with water. Also called shiramete. Alternatively, yugaku is anything which is suddenly boiled.
Dobu どぶ (Sauce of sake dregs)
- Add a little tamari to a clear broth.
- Sake dregs (kasu) may be wrung out at any time. Nigorizake is not good.
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