Chapter 18

Kashi no Bu (菓子乃部)
Sweets


Labelled as "sweets", this chapter deals almost exclusively with different variations on mochi, little cakes made out of rice flour. The two notable exceptions are quite different, and both appear to originate with European contact in the 16th century. The first is tamago sômen, or "egg sômen", but not what we would think of as "egg noodles", today. A better description might be "egg threads", or "fios de ovos" in Portuguese. These are still made in Portugal, Brazil and other places that the Portuguese made contact, such as Thailand. They derive from a class of desserts using egg yolk, as egg whites were often used for other purposes, including laundry.

The other dessert that the Portuguese seem to have brought with them is okoshi kome. These sugar coated roasted seeds are reminiscent of similar sweets found in Europe, India, and the Middle East. And missing from this section are sweets that don't need preparation, such as fruits (sometimes called kiguwashi or kigashi).


  1. Tamago sômen 玉子素麺 (Egg sômen)
    • Crack open the egg(s). Scramble well. Boil white sugar in water. Scoop out the shell. Drizzle in the egg. Then take it out and cool it well.
  2. Okoshi kome おこし米 (Rice candy)
    • Dry kernels of Job’s tears well. Slice them into pieces and roast them like rice to a golden brown. Then, add water to sugar and bring to a simmer. When it is boiling, take a little of the sugar in a bowl cover. Put in a little of the Job’s tears and mix. After emptying it into a tray, let it harden. Put sugar into the bowl cover as many times as you can. This can also be done with Dômyôji.
  3. Gobô mochi 牛房餅 (Burdock rice cake)
    • Boil gobô well and pound it. Grind it in a mortar to prepare. Then add sugar to 6 fun glutinous rice flour and 4 fun of non-glutinous rice flour. Grind it to blend together with the gobô. If there is too much sugar it will turn white. Then, when it is just right, roll it up into balls. Boil it and fry it in sesame oil. After that, boil sugar. Put it in, boil, and serve. There are oral traditions regarding the seasoning of the gobô and sugar as seen when it is rolled.
  4. Kuzu yakimochi 葛焼もち (Kudzu grilled rice cake)
    • Mix well together 1 shô of kuzu, 1 shô of water, and 1 shô of sugar. Roll it up about the size of a small tangerine. Smear a little oil in a pot. Fry it up inside many times.
  5. Kuzu mochi 葛餅 (Kudzu rice cake)
  6. Warabi mochi 蕨餅 (Bracken rice cake)
  7. Yuki mochi 雪餅 (Snow rice cakes)
  8. Sugihara mochi 杉原もち
    • Also called meguri. Cut sugihara paper finely and steam. Boil yamaimo leaves, and take out the stalks and sinew. Then mix 6 fun of glutinous rice flour and 4 fun of non-glutinous rice flour. Boil it, and arrange the three of these well. This is good in the dog days of the 6th month for even the high and also the low ranks.
  9. Kuko mochi 枸杞餅 (Gojiberry rice cakes)
    • Boil kuko, and pound it well. Take the strained broth and mix in a ratio of 4 parts glutinous rice flour to 6 parts non-glutinous rice flour. Boil it and pound it well. Alternatively, put it in immediately.
  10. Ukogi mochi 五加餅 (Siberian ginseng rice cakes)
  11. Chimaki ちまき (Rice cake wrapped in bamboo leaves)
  12. Sasa mochi さゝ餅 (Bamboo grass rice cake)
    • Polish non-glutinous rice and beat it well into flour. Take the flour in three steps. For the first, roughly pound. Then sift. Set that powder apart. For the second, pound well. Sift fine. Mix this into water. Make it into small balls, put them into a pot, and simmer. They should rise to the top, and then boil until they sink again. Lift them up, pound them well in a wooden rice mortar and chop it up into various shapes. For yellow, kuchinashi, and for blue, it is good to put in yomogi broth. There are oral traditions of green soybean powder. Yuzu leaves.
  13. Goshosama mochi 御所様餅 (Royal rice cakes)
  14. Konoesama yuki mochi 近衛様雪餅 (Konoe’s snow rice cake)

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