- How to prepare overnight sushi 一夜ずしの仕様
How to preserve whale 鯨の置様
- Wash ayu, then put rice that’s been seasoned so it is saltier than usual inside the fish, wrap it in grass, kindle a fire in the garden, fry up the wrapped package, and roll all of that in rice 2 or 3 times. Place that on top of the kindled fire, and sit a strong weight on top of that. Also, it is good to weave it around a post and twist. It can be finished in only one night. It doesn’t become salted fish.
How to preserve bamboo shoots 竹の子の置様
- Bring 1 shô of salt and 1 shô of water to boil and let it cool, and store the whale in here for three days. After that time, take it out, wrap it up, and store it until whenever. Just like that, there is also a way to pickle and store it in a bucket. It is also good if you pickle it in sake lees, add salt and put it in a jar. Do not keep the lean meat long.
Bamboo grass shoots こなり
- If you take bamboo shoots and boil well, and then season amazake with salt to taste—two or three saltings—and put in the bamboo shoots to pickle them, then the bamboo shoots should be able to preserve their color indefinitely. Serve with salt.
How to prepare Rokujô [tôfu] (六でうの仕様)
- This is the same as preserving bamboo shoots. It will keep them as when they were green until the next year. For this, two days before you use it, place it in salt.
Shirakawa amazake 白川甘酒 (Shirakawa style sweet sake)
- Cut tôfu into good sized chunks, put it in salted water and simmer, skewer it, and dry it out.
How to prepare yubeshi 柚べしの仕様 (Citron mochi)
- Grind up 3 shô of white rice, steam it well and let it cool, put 5 shô of kôji in 5 shô of water, then crumble and strain through a filter bag, and throw away the strained lees. Make it with that water, and adjust it over time. For summer, three days, and for winter, five days, should be good.
How to preserve tô no imo stalk 唐の芋のくきの置様
- Cut open a mouth like for yuzu-miso and throw away the seeds. Grind well things such as miso, ginger, and koshô. Put in such things as kaya, sesame seeds, and apricot kernels. Mix it together and put the lid on, tie it up, steam it well and let it dry, then dangle it from the ceiling.
Freeze dried kon’nyaku 氷こんにゃく
- Peel off the skin and tear into thin strips, tie up the thin pieces, then dry it in the southern shade to preserve.
How to prepare kokera-zushi こけらずしの仕様 (Pressed sushi)
- Boil kon’nyaku well, and cool it in the snow. Make it the same way as frozen tôfu.
How to salt nashimono なしものゝ塩かげん
- Cut up salmon, and make it into big, flat pieces. Salt cooked rice and mix it together. Then sit a weight on it, as is.
Furiko ふりこ (A type of sea cucumber)
- In summer put 5 gô of salt, in winter put 3 gô of salt, in 1 shô of fish. However, there are oral traditions near and far.
Masaki shôyu 正木醤油 (Masaki style soy sauce)
- Put salt and ash in the furiko, and if you knead it around in a mortar. It will quickly turn white.
Sengoku-ryû 仙石流 (Sengoku style)
- Polish 1 to of barley until it is white and grind it up. Simmer 1 to of soybeans like miso. Polish 3 shô of wheat and grind it up. Simmer the soybeans, mix with the wheat and barley flour, sprinkling the flour on top. Then put it on a board, cover it with niwatoko leaves like a lid, and let it rest idle. When it has been left to rest for a good time, add 8 shô of salt and 2 to of water to make it. The same thing, number two: add 4 shô of salt, 1 to of water, and 4 shô of kôji, then put it aside for 30 days.
Oral tradition for tanuki jiru 狸汁の口伝 (Raccoon dog broth)
Moyashi もやし (Bean sprouts)
Sendai hoshi’i 仙台干飯 (Sendai style dried rice)
- Mix together 1 to of soybeans, 1 to of barley, 1 to and 1 shô of water, 4 shô of salt, and 3 shô of kôji at any time, then mix in flour. Pour it on top, let it rest idle, and put in the water above to prepare.
How to prepare green soy bean flour (青大豆の粉仕様)
- Polish glutinous rice to a high quality, wash it with water during the middle of winter, put it in a tub, and change the water every day, soaking for 14~15 days. Then steam it well, dry it in the shade, and divide it up. Shake it well three times. Get rid of the flour.
How to salt Hino udon 日野うどんの塩かげん (Hino-style wheat noodles)
- When you don’t have green soybeans, boil daikon leaves a bit and take out the veins. Wring them out and put it on the stove, and when it is grated it should turn white and green. Put in a little yuzu leaf for aroma only.
Kneading sugar 沙糖をねり申
- Put 1 shô and 5 gô of salt into 5 shô of water. This is something that is difficult to simmer properly. The seasonal flavors are oral traditions.
Hamana nattô 浜名納豆 (Hamana-style fermented soybeans)
- When you knead sugar, crack in one egg, and pound the sugar dust in the egg, and take it out. Also in honey.
Masaki hishio 正木ひしほ (Masaki style hishio soy sauce)
- Cook up 1 to of soybeans as though making miso, put in 1 to of udon flour, blend it well, and let it rest. Cover with a straw mat and put it away for 3 days. Then, take off the cover and chill slightly, then turn it upside down, return it, and let it rest some more. When it has rested well, scrape it together, and add a mixture of 6 parts water and 3 parts salt. Pour in half the water, and blend it over time. You should leave it for 30 days. If you make it in the middle of summer you should put it away until the 9th day of the 9th month. What to do when it is left to rest is an oral tradition. Put it on a door, piling it up to the height of the door frame. It is not good to make it too thick. Leave it for 30 days, and when it has just about finished, put in such things as karakawa, ginger, and press it to prepare it [for use].
How to pickle crucian carp with sake lees 鮒のかす漬
- Prepare 1 shô of white barley in water overnight, gently simmer and steam in a bamboo basket. Sort out those that have been eaten by bugs, et cetera, from 8 gô of soybeans. Wash them in water and then dry. Roast them, grind them into small pieces, and discard the skins. Mix the barley and soybeans and steam them softly. Spread out evenly to a thickness of less than 5 bu. Sprinkle 2 gô 5 shaku of wheat flour up and down and let it rest. After pulverizing flowers, briefly crumble them, and dry them a bit in the shade. Without scattering them, put the flowers in a paper bag. Five days before preparing something (10~15 days in the winter), add 4 gô of kôji, 2 gô 5 shaku of salt, to 1 shô of water, bring it to a boil and then let it cool. Put it away in a tub or jar. Put it out in the sun, and mix it five or six times in a day. Leave it outside until it reaches the right color. However, when making 5 shô, it is good to add 3 gô of salt.
Kuwai, tokoro, imo くわい ところ いも ([Pickled] spikerush, yam, and taro)
- Pickle carp in sake lees as with an overnight salt press. You should put a strong weight on it. You should do this for five or six days.
How to prepare fukume ふくめの仕様
- Peel off the skin, and put them away to pickle in rice bran. The color doesn’t change from the fifth to seventh day.
How to preserve green melons 青瓜の置様
- Fry up dried tai, tenderize it slightly on a board, pick out the bones, and then grind it up. Kamasu, shark, salted fish, and kisugo—anything can be done.
Takenoko no kiriboshi 竹の子のきりぼし (Cut and dried bamboo shoots)
- Salt midwinter snow, boil it down, and put it in a jar. Divide the melon in two, cleanly take out the innards and put them away to pickle. Keep it until summer of next year. Also pickle such things as nebuka and sasage.
Nasubi no kiriboshi 茄子の切ぼし (Cut and dried aubergine)
- Cut it as you like, and boil slightly in hot saltwater. Dry it well and put it away in a jar. The color won’t change until the next year. There are oral traditions. At about 9~10 months’ time, you should take it out and dry it again.
Crucian carp broth 鮒の汁
- Dry it out fresh, and put it in a jar. You should also dry this 3 or 5 times in the 9th, 10th, or 11th months.
How to reconstitute dried shiitake mushrooms (ほしたる椎茸を生になす事)
- When you are in a hurry, add a little white sugar to vinegar, and immediately simmer. After a little time, the sweet taste of the sugar will remain. The sugar for 10 portions of food is two shell-ladles full, and with half the amount of vinegar.
How to keep yuzu green until next year (柚を来年まであをく置様)
- Put the white undersides into sugar water to prepare, and they will seem to return to when they were fresh.
How to mix and season with kinton (橘飩のこねかげん)
- When the yuzu aren’t any bigger than plums, add copper waste to 1 shô of rice bran and 1 shô of salt, and put it aside to pickle. When it comes time to use it, extract the salt the night before.
Quick irizake 煎酒急候時
- When miso shiru is not yet too hot to touch, knead it in. When using the hot water from kuzu sômen and suiton, you can use this same technique. There are oral traditions. Either way, with kuzu, grind it with a druggist’s mortar, grinding it into fine pieces.
- Put 2 sticks of katsuobushi in 5 gô of miso and 1 shô 5 gô of water, boil it down, put it in a bag, and let it drip. Draw off the liquid and return it 3 times .
- Regarding the scroll of food above, there are myriad manners, and people make food with their own preparation, indicating that nothing is fixed. However, since from ancient times these things were heard and passed down until today, I have called this work "Ryôri Monogatari". The rare things in famous foods from other countries may be thousands, and before long we will see and hear about it. So let me write a postscript about what we can do. The fish and fowl of the earth are born from nothing to an inexhaustible supply, and there are no limits to the variety born out of the rain and dew, so who could measure it all? Today, there are popular items, but the favorites also remain, and I might be able to write and reveal such excellent things. It is an outline. Whether a view of spring, travels far from home, or overwhelming tedium, the brush cannot capture it all. The author doesn’t know everything, and so one must combine what he does know with oral tradition.
- Written in Sayama, Musashi.
- Kan’ei 20 Mizunoto-Hitsuji, a lucky day in the 12th month.